trading steel and glass skyscrapers for the city of a hundred spires
Prague Prague Prague, city of my dreams, we meet at last.
(St. Augustine, statue on the Charles Bridge)
So I admit I have been putting off this blogging thing for the past week, but I am finally here, and that is what counts! I arrived on the 29th of August, and mostly, I have been up to a lot of walking and touristy things, like taking pictures and getting in the way of other people’s pictures. We have been attending intensive Czech class this week as well, at 9 AM every morning for four hours a day. Intimidating though that may sound, I assure you it has not been that bad, though it may help that I have been studying Czech on my own during the summer (I am a nerd, please don’t break my glasses).
Moving into the apartment was relatively hassle-free (I was the second person to arrive). The only hitches were a) dragging more than half my body weight in luggage up the stairs, and b) figuring out how to unlock the door. Because I am particularly inept, it took about ten minutes to figure out which key went in which keyhole, which direction to turn the key, how many times the key had to be turned, and in which order. It was a marvelous experience, standing outside the door with ~45 kg of luggage, a pounding headache and a deep, deep desire to take a shower and collapse on a soft surface that was preferably horizontal.
The apartment itself is very cool, the view is wonderful, and the rooms have these awesome windows with ledges big enough for you to sit on and watch the sun set on the red roofs. We live above a wine seller, who is also the landlord, and he is quite possibly the coolest person I’ve met here so far. He speaks Czech, German, Russian, and only a little English, but that doesn’t stop him from inviting us in for wine in his little wine café every time he sees us. I will definitely have to practice my Czech with him and hope he doesn’t laugh too hard.
The natives I’ve met so far are very friendly as well. The first day of class, I had forgotten my transportation pass in my room, so I told everyone to go ahead without me and that I’d catch up, no problem. What a stupid move for someone as directionally challenged as me. Needless to say, as soon as I got back out on the street alone, I was at a complete loss and my very first step was already in the wrong direction. This led to me running around the side streets of Old Town, going, “prosím prosím!” and pointing at the address of my school, hoping fervently that someone could point me in the right direction. Incidentally, although they were all very kind and patient, no one knew the way. In the end, I ran across one of the many bridges in the city (the Čechův most) and then down one direction before making a complete 180 and running down the opposite direction. By then, I think I was already halfway to the zoo, but I did find the tram, and I did make it to school (15 minutes late, but the teacher did not mind).
Anyway. Prague! It really is as beautiful as everyone says (like Disneyland, like a fairy tale!), though admittedly, it is tainted a bit by the constant reconstruction. My first night here, Dawoon and I took a walk to Staré Město (!!) and the Charles Bridge (!!), only to be greeted again and again by the scaffolding that seemed to pop up everywhere. Still, that didn’t discourage the tourists (or us!) and it was all still very hand-to-the-heart-and gasp-worthy. The tourists here are a motley bunch. Since I’ve been here, people have thanked/apologized to me in at least four different languages. Probably more. Prague’s appeal is international.
During our multiple-day orientation, we’ve had traditional Czech meals such as gulash and roast pork with knedlíky. I’ve also had smažený sýr (fried cheese), which is going to clog my arteries and kill me along with the beer I’ve been drinking almost daily (it’s cheaper than water!). But that is ok!
Our program coordinators took us on walks around the city, showing us the sights and trying to help us orient ourselves. Petr showed us Café Slavia, where intellectuals during the communist reign would gather to debate and discuss ideas (one of whom was Václav Havel, the last president of Czechoslovakia and the first president of the Czech Republic). Of course, the Cafe has since transformed into a completely different setting, with its main patrons being, according to Petr, “rich business men in suits trying to look cool sipping overpriced coffee.” Still, the history is there.
When we met at “the horse’s tail” in Wenceslas Square the second day, Petr told us how, again during the communist reign, women would walk around the Square in miniskirts amidst the occupying soldiers, “because what other weapons did we have but the long legs of the Czech beauties.”
Petr is very passionate about Prague’s transition from communism, in case it wasn’t already obvious. He even teaches a class on it. Can you guess what it’s called? “Czech Society: Transition from Communism.”
(Týn Church, Old Town Square)
Since I’ve been here, I’ve explored Hradčany, Malá Strana, Nové Město, Staré Město, Josefov, Vyšehrad, and two Tesco superstores. I will tell you all about them in due time. I think, for now, I will have to make up for all the sleep I’ve not been getting.
